Tucked away in the tranquil village of Nageshi in Goa’s hinterlands, lies “Shiv-Tirth” – the Palace of the Saundekar Kings – a majestic yet fading relic of aristocratic grandeur. This hidden gem is a testament to the region’s feudal past, cultural richness, and deep-rooted ties to the dynasties of Southern India.
A Lineage of Nobility
Shiv-Tirth Palace belongs to the Saundekar dynasty family, a noble lineage whose origins trace back several centuries. Once the powerful feudal lords under the Kadamba dynasty, the Saundekars later maintained their royal influence during the Portuguese era.
The family’s ancestral roots lie in the erstwhile kingdom of Sodhe (or Sonda), near Sirsi in present-day Uttara Kannada district of Karnataka. This princely state, which shared blood ties with the Wadiyars’ of Mysore, spanned parts of Karnataka and Goa, including present-day Talukas of Sanguem, Canacona, and Quepem. Over the centuries, the Saundekars served as vassals to major Southern empires such as the Vijayanagar Empire, the Bijapur Sultanate, the Maratha Empire, and eventually the Kingdom of Mysore.
The Flight to Goa
The course of history changed in 1761 when Hyder Ali seized power in Mysore, deposing the Wodeyar dynasty and threatening its vassals. In 1763, King Savai Veer of Sonda fled with his family, seeking refuge in Portuguese-held Goa. The Portuguese granted asylum to the Saundekars in Gouli-Moula, Tiswadi. In return, the king signed a treaty on January 17, 1791, ceding key regions – including Ponda, Zambaulim, Panchmahal, and Canacona – to the Portuguese.
This treaty marked a turning point, securing the family’s safety while permanently altering the territorial dynamics of the region. Though their original kingdom in Karnataka diminished, the Saundekars established a new seat of power in Goa, where their legacy would endure.
The Shiv-Tirth Palace at Nageshi
Initially settled in Moulabhati, Old Goa, the family later relocated to the more spacious and enduring Shiv-Tirth Palace near the Sri Naguesh Temple in Bandora village, Ponda. Spread across three acres, the estate includes the Palace, a Water Tank, a betel nut plantation, and the revered temple of Sri Naguesh.
Constructed over 250 years ago, the palace showcases a unique blend of Indian architecture having Portuguese influence with indigenous styles. Built using laterite stone, traditional lime plaster, and teakwood, it features arched verandas, intricately carved wooden balconies, and a grand central courtyard. The entrance foyer proudly displays the family’s coat of arms. Although the upper floors remain private, the sheer scale of the structure commands admiration.
A Living Tradition: Ganesh Chaturthi at the Palace
The Shiv-Tirth Palace is not just a historic monument – it remains a living center of cultural heritage. The most significant celebration here is the annual Ganesh Chaturthi festival.
Two idols of Lord Ganesh are worshipped – one for the Royal Family, and another, painted in radiant gold, for the public. On the fifth day of the festival, both idols are carried in a grand procession for immersion to the sacred lake of Sri Naguesh Temple. The procession, accompanied by traditional music, draws a large crowd. The royal family watches the immersion from high windows overlooking the lake, after which they distribute fruits and money to the gathered devotees – a tradition that continues to this day.
Public Glimpses of Royal Grandeur
Though usually closed to the public, the Palace opens its gates during select festivals. Besides Ganesh Chaturthi, visitors are welcomed during Chaitra Purnima (in April), when a week-long Natak Utsav (theatre festival) is held on the palace grounds, culminating in a grand Rath Utsav (chariot procession). During these rare occasions, family heirlooms, ancient weapons, and other artifacts are displayed, offering visitors a rare insight into Goa’s Royal Heritage.
Legacy Lives On
Today, the village of Sodhe in Karnataka serves as the headquarters of one of the Ashta Mathas (eight holy seats) established by Sri Madhavacharya. While much of the original kingdom has faded into history, a solitary 12-by-12-foot granite slab resting on five-foot-high carved pillars – once used as a royal throne – remains as a silent testament to its regal past.
In contrast, the family’s Goan residence, Shiv-Tirth Palace, remains intact and lovingly preserved. The current heir to the Saundekar lineage lives in Belagavi but frequently visits the Palace, especially during festivals, to honor and continue the traditions of his forefathers.
Shiv-Tirth Palace stands as a quiet yet powerful symbol of a bygone era – a legacy of resilience, cultural richness, and royal pride that still echoes through the halls of this remarkable Goan estate.
